In Germany, knows only the head island Spitsbergen of the island group.
The end of January, two weeks before trip start, show in the Webcam of Idar Jarle Nikolaisen already „The blue Arctic" between 10:00 a clock and 14:00 a clock, after that are dark like in a sack again. on top
Day 1
In Oslo, I had just once so much time a cigarette to smoke, and while I went to the flight to Tromsö to write a SMS quickly. Already it went further to the airplane. On the flight, I became tired, what changed in the terminal there few. I got myself something to drink whereon it went me better.
But it was too much trouble and I could nowhere sit down. In the check-in-hall, it did not so warm. 22:35 clock, I wasn't in the pub so I had planned, therefor I have read ready the book „thousand miles of ice".
A good possibility the long wait shorten. I reckon once of the remainder, that remained here in the terminal, are waited passengers to Longyearbyen, and in a half hour boarding – previously should go smoking I.
Hopefully the two hours of flight time go past quickly. The Gates to Alta, Hammerfest and Kirkenes already were closed and the next to the last flight for today out. The night will become a short one. Priitta already expected me at the airport in Longyearbyen. My bag was not on the belt, it will be searched for it, and it should be brought at the next day.
We went to Priittas and Antons house. Ten km outside of Longyearbyen at the edge of the Advendtal. A small Snack something to drink and we went sleeping against 3:00 clock.
Day 2
Around 9:00 clock, there is breakfast, and I became acquainted with Anton and Erika. Erika made there a practical course at a wilderness guide. I go alone with Anton on tour at Adventdal.
The tour was somewhat difficult, I overturn some times the sled. It is very coldly in this treeless area and I had not yet all of my clothing, that is yet on flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen.
At our return, my bag already was delivered and I was able to change my clothes. I was knackered, the weather and the tour do that. This day we had temperatures around -14°C and wind speeds of 9-13 m/s. that is a chill Temperaturr of -32°C
Day 3
It was was a calm morning, for this day planned a tour to a 10 km remote glacier cave. Erika went this day with us. The weather with -22"C was clear and we had a beautiful tour with the dogs. The horizon is easy reddened. We start into Bolterdalen, and let the coal-mine seven to the left, it is highly above on a mountain, that is occasionally black through the coal dust. The trucks go the coal all around the clock.
The trip with the sleds led in the easily increasing valley. Anton found there a left gun, whitch it takes, a pair of pants that it leav on a path marker and saw we another couple of sport shoe.
On all Svalbard islands, it is duty to carry a gun because of the ice bears, also longer tours must be registered in the Sysselmannen-office (governor of Svalbard).
Klang, my first Teamdog, found a sock, that it dragged along some km as a prey, until it was taken away it by Anton. It threw and deeply entered the socks into the snow.
Above in the valley, we stood firm stand and made the tug lines ahead at the iceanker displayed before. We removed the thick jackets and secured the Spikes under the heavy snow boots.
Anton got opened the entrance into the ice cave. It is covered with thick boards and snow.
That got into about. five meters deep and with a safty rope accommodated.
Under the ice, the stones are to be recognized and glittered the walls like diamonds in the light of our head lamps. Out of the walls jut ice advantages as well as tables, and of the ceiling long ice-stalactite hang. The cave is high until several meters, but we partially must crawl on the belly through low gangways. Here are small lakes out of frozen water, the life stands quiet.
Polar glaciers do not hike so like mountain glacier and lie in the Permafrost.
Before the upper end of the cave, a small ascent that is overcome with a cliff leader. To the exit, we did not want to use the upper entrance and went back in the cave.
It is good to known, that after the small landslide party on the ice, it is simpler than run and can happen is nevertheless, and to the small snow field the cliff leaders is.
Anton waited meanwhile at the dogs for Erika and me.
At a bend, the cave is here only 1.30 meters high, made we our rest.
As we through the lower entrance wanted to left the cave, it was locked and covered with boards and something snow of the group was came in the cave contrary.
Erika was behind me as I get pushed with effort the boards onto the upper, flat part the to the side.
I had to pay attention not to slip around and to tumble some meters with Erika. It's a little bit tricky. Anton expected us at the upper exit and needs to come something time around through the deep snow to us. He has not noted that the entrance was locked.
It was an experience. Here above I made some pictures of the surrounding mountains.
After the sauna, Priitta, Erika and I were in the Svalbardseminar. Lectures over the ecology and economy of Svalbard at the Unis, the university in Longyearbyen.
Although I have few understood, it was would very interesting.
Day 4
This day , we had a additional guest, a Swedish journalist. As quad we are drove diagonal through the Advendtal and vis-à-vis L' byen north into the mountains
over the Tellbreen-Glacier. Steil
Zooming uphill with a scarped long downhill. Here it was when I wanted to see to Santos' paw, that dogs run, unsnapped the anchor and I with the tug line between the legs, lying half under the sled. Unfortunately no one made a picture. Badly was that I had not in -36° felt degrees of the left glove, at in order to examine with this hand the paw. the next time he should see after the paws itself.
The hand became not warm in my finger gloves and I used the large seal glove. The unharnessing of the dogs I made without gloves, whereby in -22°C almost the fingers fell me away.
Since I been here I smoked only 15 cigarettes, therefrom often only 1-2 cm. As the only smoker this enjoyment in the free takes place.
At evening I did not feel good. Outside I was not able to stay because totally froze, and was also tired. Priitta made me something house medicine into the tea - Finlandia
Tag 5
This day was shping day. I was able to utilize a day of reat. Anton dropped Erika and me at the church. It is a general meeting place. So how it on Svalbard usually, will be removed the shoes by entering entering a building. This custom comes of the coal miners in order to let the dirt outside.
We went by the -40°C cold wind to the opposite side of the valley. There are most buildings and businesses. Here I was able to get some souvenirs. With Anton, we went in the afternoon to the airport to pick up a new guest.
The cold of the day did not damage me, goes me it again good.
In the evening we discussed the tent overnight stay for the next evening, as a new guest was now Lauren here. He came of its stay in Africa to its first sled dog tour after Svalbard.
At these days, the sun appeared for the first time in the year over the horizon for some minutes. The daylight immerses the landscape into a satisfied blue, and the darkness gives notice early at the day.
In the light of the head lamps, we prepared together the sleds for the next both days.
Day 6
This morning we had -15°C. The strong wind let us feel -34°C.To pack the larger sledge and to stow the tents we need necessary somewhat more time than otherwise. Against 12:00 a clock, we were able to depart. At first it was the same route as well as to the glacier cave. The ascent was strenuous and the sledges heavier. In the departure, strong wind with 10 – 12 ms at the glacier. I needed to struggle the breath protection, the glasses and also the large, thick gloves against the strong wind, that carried the snow before itself.
After, for my perceiving of eternal stretch led us the way away of the glacier into a side valley, past at a large snow hole. I composed myself, that is a good sheltered from the wind place. The wind was blow away, but I was sceptical. A stretch upwards the valley we set up our both tents.
In this night, I was happy to had on very much warming clothing. Two long underpants under the jeans, ever a short and long T-shirt, a thin pullover, a Sweatshirt, a thick roll collar pullover and about that another windstopper. About that the thick Goretex protection clothing came during the trip. I had on the interior boots also during the night. This only as a piece of advice for those, which would make such a tour also.
While cooking in the tent, we had steam as well as in a sauna. Our wet gloves and caps came into the roof of the tent for drying. In -15°C, that was the coldest night of my life.
The dogs tuned night at three o'clock a joint concert. "They have rose desire alive" the correct sleep position I got at morning around eight o'clock.
Day 8
After the dismantling of the camp, we had a steep, long and hard ascent. On top of the hill we could see the south coast and in the other direction Longyearbyen. At the early afternoon, the sun shooed to first time over the horizon.
The departure was simple, because downhill. Only the sledge must be braked something to protect the dogs. They can injure themselves in the depth snow easily at the articulations, and on the large ice disk, the sledge should not overtake the dogs.
Each ski driver would have been able to be envious, in view of the untouched depth snow.
Around 18:00 clock, we were unharness and unloaded ready and again in the house.
After the delicious meal, I recovered something else in the sauna. Before the warm oven, that became feeding of someone, we looked some pictures of Svalbard at this evening. Many of the islands are under environmental protection and may be entered only with permission of the Sisselmanen (governor). on top
Day 8
About noon we are in L'byen, Mark a new guest for the next week, was picked up at the airport. Anton got water for the next days and we went something else into the city. In the last evening of Lauren and me, we look long time outside at the northern light. Mark tries with its camera and tripod to make pictures, but for the first time, Anton turned the light on, and for the second time, the Pupies fell almost over the tripod and wanted to play with it.
Lauren and I went somewhat earlier sleeping at this evening, we must leave this beautiful place because 3:30 o'clock to get our flight back home. on top Day 9
Until I awake it was already 3:15 o'clock. Quickly in the dark dress, without to wake mark, into the shoes and hurry up. Priitta brought us quickly.
Laurens and my flights were same. It is somewhat more comfortably to travel with a well known person. Our ways separated In Oslo. Lauren traveled from here with some stops back to Hawaii and I was around 17:00 o'clock at home in Limburg.
It was an time rich of experience, the trails more difficult than ever before, the outlook and landscape unique, the dogs with manifold personalities. Singing, growling or also simply only biting the lines of the other dogs.
Our host Priitta and Anton, Priitta an all-rounder, speaks Finnish, Norwegian, English and German (also simultaneous). It instructs German, is Guide,
My Dogs
was
Kiwi
Kviten
Klang
Stark
Sevä
Billi
Santos
cook well and organize everything. Anton a Musher and trapper whom does nothing bring out of the quiet, and always for its dogs and all concerns to the place is. Where Anton should live otherwise as in the Arctic?
To experience around the pure life you must know both and its dogs in Spitsbergen. The end
Picture sources:Except the own pictures, also pictures of Priitta are shown, to see comments slide over the pictures.